“I’m the daughter of gospel singers and the granddaughter of Apostolic bishops. So I grew up in the Black church,” says storyteller Jackie Jonas over Zoom from her kitchen in Philadelphia. Her family lived in Dickson, a town in central Tennessee where anti-mecegination laws remained on the books until she was in high school.
Both her mother Iva Jean and grandmother Mildred worked as professional cooks. “We had the kinds of foods that you would expect,” she continues. That included the black eyed pea and rice dish hoppin’ John and collard greens for good luck on New Years.
A decade ago, Jackie traveled to Ghana with friends where she recognized herself in the people around her. As they drove up the coast from Accra, she subsisted on red red, a Ghanaian black eyed pea dish that gets its signature red color from palm oil. It’s a “dish that seems to unite this country,” Jackie explains. She also sees it as the mother of hoppin’ John. “Red red is what we were trying to get back to,” she adds.
Jackie learned to make the dish from Franciska Issaka, a woman she met on that trip who later visited her in Philadelphia. As a Jew by choice, the dish has become part of Jackie’s Jewish practice. She serves it on Shabbat and she prepared it for a synagogue fundraiser where guests discussed the intersection of race and religion. “I connect with whatever group I’m moving into through food,” Jackie explains. “Food is how we tell each other who we are.”
Cooking notes: This recipe calls for red palm oil, a type of vegetable oil extracted from the fruit of the oil palm tree. It has a deep reddish-orange color and has a distinct earthy, slightly nutty, and mildly smoky flavor. Look for a habitat-friendly red palm oil such as this one to buy online.
This recipe comes from “Tlaim: The Patchwork Cookbook,” a grassroots project dedicated to celebrating the ethnic and racial diversity of the Jewish community. With over 70 delicious recipes and stories, Tlaim centers underrepresented Jewish identities such as Jews of color. Follow Tlaim on Instagram and sign up to be notified of the release of the cookbook, which is made in collaboration with non-profit Be’chol Lashon. Explore more recipes from Tlaim here.