“Food has a magical way of connecting us to our roots and creating cherished memories,” says Ilanit Israeli Nagar, whose grandmother was born in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. When Ilanit craves the comforting flavors of her upbringing, she makes a Moroccan style hamin called s’china (also spelled shkena) for Shabbat. Ilanit’s recipe includes beans and chickpeas, wheat berries, hard boiled eggs, potatoes, delectably tender brisket, and marrow bones. Built on a base of caramelized sugar and flavored with smoked paprika, cumin, and dried chilis, the s’china develops deep flavor during an overnight stint in the oven.
Ilanit likes to experiment with different ways to top her s’china, including with kubaneh dough, in a nod to her husband’s Yemenite heritage. Her grandmother used to top her s’china with ma’amra, a savory cake of ground beef and nuts. You can make the s’china with or without the ma’amra, but it is a wonderful addition.
As is traditional, Ilanit serves the s’china in bowls, separating each element of the slow-cooked stew post cooking, allowing for each guest to create their own bowl. Alongside the s’china, she serves an array of fresh salads, like spicy carrots, beets, and sliced fennel, providing a much needed fresh counterpoint.
This recipe was shared by Ilanit Israeli Nagar. Read more about her family in “A Moroccan Grandmother’s Hamin Finds Its Way to San Diego.”
