In food writer Yonit Naftali’s family, Jewish holidays have their own special desserts. For Passover there’s a torte with nuts that’s layered with chocolate ganache. Come Shavuot in spring, there are semolina and cheese dumplings, for Hanukkah, it’s yeast doughnuts, and on Purim, walnuts and poppyseeds are tucked into fluden and beigli for Mishloach Manot (holiday care packages).
In the fall, Simchat Torah is marked with aranygaluska, a traditional Hungarian dessert consisting of balls of yeasted dough rolled in sugar, ground walnuts, and golden raisins. While aranygaluska literally translates to “golden dumplings,” the Naftali family has their own nickname for it, owing to its regal appearance: crown cake. “The crown shape resembles the crown of the Torah that is paraded around the synagogue on Simchat Torah,” Yonit explains. Her mother Eva still makes it in a beautiful pan she bought for her mother with her very first paycheck in the 1970s.
All of these holiday recipes come from her mother’s family who trace their roots to Oradea in Transylvania. After the Holocaust, Yonit’s grandmother Paula had nothing; much of her family perished in Auschwitz and one of the few things she could cling to were her late mother’s recipes, which she continued to make and pass down to her daughter Eva. “It’s the only thing [my mother] has that is left from her family, from her tradition,” Yonit says.
Cook’s note: In Yonit’s family, this dessert is served with a homemade cherry liqueur, but it also pairs well with tea or coffee to balance the sweetness.
Read more about Yonit Naftali in “A Shavuot Feast Marks the Start of Summer for This Family” and in our cookbook “The Jewish Holiday Table: A World of Recipes, Traditions & Stories to Celebrate All Year Long.”