Cookbook author Bonnie Stern’s love of baking runs deep — it all started with her grandmother, Jenny Soltz, a mother of 11 and a challah-braiding legend. Money was tight, but Jenny had a secret weapon: her legendary round challahs. Every year, she entered them in the Grand Valley, Ontario county fair, and she always took home first prize: a winter’s supply of flour — just enough to keep those challahs, and her 11 children, going strong.
Jenny came from what was then the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Her family was well-off, so it's likely she didn’t cook or bake in those early years, Bonnie explains. But after immigrating to Canada — passing through the United States just before the turn of the century — she began recreating the foods that held meaning from home. She only spoke and understood Yiddish and couldn’t read or write, so her challah recipe likely lived in her hands, not on paper.
Her daughter Ruthie, Bonnie’s mother, never baked challah herself. In the Jewish neighborhoods of Toronto, fresh challah was easy to find at local bakeries, so she bought one every Friday for Shabbat dinner. And it wasn’t until Bonnie began preparing Friday night meals for her aging parents that she started baking challah.
Today, Bonnie typically makes a large loaf for the table and smaller ones for guests to take home — or for her husband and son, who can never resist sneaking a few bites before the meal. For Bonnie, no matter how big or elaborate the dinner might be, the challah is always the star. “Knowing that my grandmother made challah every week, and that her challah had such an important significance in the family, makes me feel more deeply about making challah every week for my family,” she says. Every loaf she bakes is a tribute to her grandmother’s legacy.
Bonnie and her daughter, Anna Rupert, shared their family challah tradition in the Grandmas Tent at The Great Nosh, a giant picnic we hosted in New York in June 2025.
Read more about Bonnie’s family in “Aunt Lil’s 100-Year-Old Meringue Rugelach, Courtesy of Bonnie Stern” and get her recipe for meringue rugelach. Plus, check out more recipes from The Great Nosh’s Grandmas Tent.